In 1966, Yves Saint Laurent visited Marrakech for the first time, a place he considered sacred because of its tranquillity. He designed his collections there and visited in June and December to find solitude away from bustling Paris. It was in Morocco that he found colour, and the work he produced there was dominated by vibrant hues never before seen in his work.
In Marrakech, Saint Laurent, who was born in Oran, Algeria and moved to the French capital at the age of 18, wore some of his most iconic garments and not only cemented himself as a designer on a mission to energetically dress up men and women. but as an independent style connoisseur. Here in the Red City, he swept the private halls of Dar el-Hanch in baggy blue-wash jeans, skinny at the thighs, with matching shirts, Cuban-heeled boots, and ivory suits. He saw the city as a quiet retreat from the world. “Yves never really left the house,” Saint Laurent creative director Anthony Vaccarello explained ahead of the brand’s Spring/Summer 2023 menswear show. “He was all about reading, thinking about clothes and spending time with friends.”
For the label’s latest menswear show, Vaccarello, who has served as creative director since 2016, left in a big way, transporting nearly 300 editors, TikTokers and celebrities (Dominic Fike, stranger things heavy Jamie Campbell Bower and Steve Lacy among them) into the hazy Agafay desert. Guests were sent in 007-style convoy in blacked-out vans to a camp in the middle of the desert, where they found a large-scale installation designed in collaboration with British artist and set designer Es Devlin. Like from a galactic quarters arrival or dune, two highly polished metal boxes acted as the gateway to the catwalk, which for the first time in Saint Laurent men’s show history was circular and wrapped around a makeshift plunge pool from which a giant ring of light emerged. “I wanted something soft, even sensual, to contrast with my typically straight catwalks,” explained Vaccarello.
As the crowd hum quietened, a false fog swept over the scene while the music, curated by Saint Laurent’s go-to DJ Sebastian, punctuated the eeriness of the landscape. Vaccarello’s first model stomped across the granular soil and the show began. Vaccarello didn’t just replicate or reference the aforementioned garments — floor-length, breathable “bougainvilleas” dresses in cobalt and scarlet and violet kaftans — that Saint Laurent released after he fell in love with Morocco in the 1960s. Instead, the 50-strong collection was predominantly black – only a handful of sandy looks and a magenta jacket strayed from Vaccarello’s signature hue. When asked why he thought this was suitable for the summer, Vaccarello replied: “Why not? Blue, red and yellow is the Moroccan cliché. I wanted to avoid that and black is the best way to really see the silhouette of the body, especially in the desert.”
Saint Laurent Right felt at home in the Moroccan desert
Source link Saint Laurent Right felt at home in the Moroccan desert